Places to visit on the Northumberland coastline

Start your trip at the very top of Northumberland, near the England-Scotland border – from which you’ll meander south over the next few days. The fun begins at Berwick-upon-Tweed, on a Bridges and Castle cruise with Berwick Boat Trips (departs from 10am), to pass beneath the town’s historic bridges, spot wild herons on the riverbank, and see its medieval castle ruins up-close.

When the tide recedes, the Pilgrim’s Route walkway to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne is revealed. The island has been a pilgrimage destination since its monastery was established in AD 635. While there’s now a road linking it to the mainland, there’s something soul-stirring about walking across the sand, the route marked out by wooden poles. Check the tide timings carefully, and consider booking a guide.

Tiny Lindisfarne has much to discover. It’s easy to walk around, so spend the next few hours following in ancient monks’ footsteps at Lindisfarne Priory (it dates back to the 11th century, with panoramic sea views), and exploring the Tudor fortress turned fancy mansion of Lindisfarne Castle – the work of one of England’s finest 20th-century architects, Sir Edwin Lutyens.

Next stop, the seaside village of Bamburgh, whose long, sandy shore is one of the best beaches in Northumberland. But first, dip into the RNLI Grace Darling Museum, to learn about the incredible bravery of local girl Grace Darling. On 7 September 1838, at the age of 22, she helped to save nine people from a nearby shipwreck – risking her life for others and becoming a true Victorian heroine.

Tonight, make yourself at home in Bamburgh Castle: there are a handful of self-catering apartments tucked inside its ramparts, including one in the bell tower. But first, supper at The Potted Lobster, which gets its name from its signature dish, caught locally and served poached, thermidor-style or grilled with lashings of garlic butter. Other highlights include Northumbrian sirloin and lager-battered haddock.

This morning’s destination is literally on your doorstep: Bamburgh Castle. It opens at 10am, so beat the crowds by starting early, giving you plenty of time to delve into its 1,400-year history and architectural nooks. The gleaming swords in the Armoury, the royal mementoes in the State Rooms, the sweeping sea views from Neville Tower – it’s all yours to discover.

Follow the pathways from the Castle down to the beach, whose sugary sands stretch out for 8 miles (2.5km) – a sublime setting for breezy walks and sandcastles, yes, but also for surfing lessons with KA Adventure Sports. Thanks to its long, soft rolling waves, this is one of the best beaches in Northumberland and is a top surfing spot suitable for newbies and pros alike.

This morning, you’ll already have spotted the Farne Islands from Bamburgh – and now it’s time for a closer look. This dinky archipelago is a wildlife haven, its skies swirling with puffins, razorbills, guillemots and eider ducks – and its waters teeming with seals, porpoises and dolphins. To see them, hop on board a Puffin Cruise with Serenity Farne Island Boat Tours, departing at 2.15pm.

Maybe it’s the abundant natural light, the characterful wildlife, or the ever-changing spectacle of the sea? Whatever the reason, coastal Northumberland is a creative hotspot, home to countless artists, makers, sculptors and more. In the village of Seahouses, you’ll find everything from puffin-shaped earrings to quirky hand-glazed teapots at the likes of Drift, North Shore and The Puffin’s Burrow.

Stuffed with maritime knick-knacks and just a few steps from Seahouses harbour, the Olde Ship Inn has been welcoming salty sea dogs since 1812. The ales are local, the welcome is warm, and the menu is hearty: think steak-filled pies with fresh buttered greens, and signature fish chowder with hunks of sourdough. You’ll be glad you booked a room upstairs, or in one of its dog-friendly cottages. 

It may be in ruins, but Dunstanburgh Castle still strikes an imposing figure on its coastal headland – one of the grandest Northumberland attractions. It’s best to drive straight to Craster this morning, then follow the 1.3-mile (2km) walking trail to the castle: it’s a gentle route, but the sea breeze and lashing waves bring real edge-of-the-world vibes.

This morning you have two options, depending on your mood and fitness. If you’re up for a challenge, book a coasteering tour with Adventure Northumberland: you’ll splash, swim and slide your way around the shore, your very own wild play-park. Leaping from the rocks, dipping into sea caves: it’s exhilarating stuff. Trips depart from Craster, and moderate fitness is required.

Alternatively, swap the waves for a peaceful woodland walk around Howick Hall Gardens & Arboretum – the ancestral home of the Earls Grey, the family behind the refreshing tea blend. Its 26 hectares (65 acres) are criss-crossed with walking trails, leading to ancient forest, wildflower meadows, flower-filled borders and even the “bog garden”, whose plants hail from China, India, New Zealand and more. Post-stroll, retreat to the tearoom for a bergamot-infused brew.

Whether heaped onto crackers or served with lemon-butter and poached eggs for breakfast, the humble kipper is coastal Northumberland’s most famous foodie export – thanks to family-run smokehouse L. Robson & Sons. For four generations, the Robsons have perfected the recipe for smoky, salty and succulent kippers. Try for yourself at their shop in Craster, where fillets are vacuum-packed for easy (and whiff-free) travel.

From Lindisfarne Oysters and house-made steak pie, to platters laden with local kippers, North Sea prawns and mussels marinière, The Jolly Fisherman in Craster puts Northumberland’s finest produce on your plate. Grab a window seat for views of Dunstanburgh Castle and the North Sea – best enjoyed with an Alnwick Sloe Gin spritz in-hand.

Don your wizard hat this morning, for a trip to the town of Alnwick – home of Hogwarts! Alnwick Castle starred as Harry Potter’s school in two of the films, and fully embraces its Hollywood credentials with filming location tours and broomstick “flying lessons” (not just for the kids, you know). The castle’s history stretches back 950 years, and you might also recognise it from Downton Abbey, Elizabeth and Transformers.

Amid the lush, peaceful Alnwick Garden, there is a locked Poison Garden – home to the  most dangerous plant species in the world. It’s only accessible on guided tours, a thrilling prospect for all Agatha Christie fans. Away from the deadly nightshade, these grounds are a sublime setting for picnics and walks, dotted with Barbara Hepworth bronzes and more than 3,000 English roses.

Follow the river from Alnwick to Alnmouth, whose wide, sandy beach can only be improved by a new sandcastle or two. Kick off your shoes for a paddle, and grab a gelato from Gwen’s – the ice cream van in the beach car park. With its rolling grass-topped dunes and rock pools revealed at low tide, this is an idyllic walking spot. Dogs are welcome year-round.

Alnmouth is made for mooching, with its pretty harbour, arty souvenir shops and the tiny Ferry Hut – the smallest museum in Northumberland. It really is a hut, stuffed with photographs of the village and the ferrymen who used to row visitors across the estuary. If Alnmouth looks a little familiar, that’s because it’s a filming location for ITV’s Vera; happily, its cobbled streets and tearooms are even lovelier without murderers on the loose.

When the Hairy Bikers visited The Fish Shack in Amble on their Go North series, they couldn’t resist its huge seafood platter: it’s designed to share, and to showcase the region’s finest local catches. It’s a feast of Lindisfarne Oysters, North Sea prawns, North Shields crab, roasted sea bream and much more, all served on Amble’s picturesque harbourfront. What tastier finale to your coastal adventure?