Places to visit in the North Pennines

When you see the roiling, roaring white water of Cauldron Snout, you’ll understand how this waterfall got its name. It’s the lengthiest cascade in Britain and one of the best waterfalls in England, at 180 metres long – surrounded by wild, pristine moorland. To access it, walk from the car park at Cow Green Reservoir; the route is around 1.8 miles (3km).

Next up, another of the best waterfalls in England: High Force, where the River Tees plunges 21 metres into an ancient rock gully. You’ll hear it thundering before you see it, and the route – which is mostly wheelchair-accessible – weaves through the forest. It’s just a few minutes’ walk from High Force Hotel, which runs low-cost tours at 11.30am on selected days.

At the Bowlees Visitor Centre, you can learn all about how the magnificent North Pennines was forged over millennia, the wildlife that call it home (from red squirrels to otters), and how it boasts some of the best walks in England. With your head full of plans, head for lunch at The Falls Cafe, which is part of the visitor centre.

The award-winning Brunswick House hotel is set in a charming Georgian home, with only a handful of bedrooms. Think Egyptian cotton sheets, stylish antique decor and slap-up “Teesdale breakfasts” – featuring treacle-cured bacon and black pudding from the local butcher. Check in now, before heading out for this evening’s adventure.

The North Pennines has some of the darkest skies in the country, with spectacular stargazing on clear evenings – no telescope required! But Grassholme Observatory takes you deeper into the solar system: on its after-dark events, its guides use high-tech equipment and lively commentary to reveal planets and galaxies that are hidden from the naked eye.

Also known as the “Secret Garden of the North”, Eggleston Hall Gardens is bursting with traditional English blooms – a peaceful rural retreat for walks, or even a summertime breakfast picnic (Brunswick House offers take-away butties, pastries and fruit). There have been gardens on this spot since the late 16th century, and Eggleston’s vibrant colours and scents are an energising start to the day. 

Saddle up to explore Hamsterley Forest’s 33 miles (53km) of marked cycling and mountain biking trails – plus countless more woodland tracks. If you didn’t bring your own bike, no problem: you can hire one from the centre in the car park. Hit the K-Line trail’s jumps and thrilling downhills, or simply enjoy a leisurely pootle through the woodlands. 

Snap up a souvenir you’d never find anywhere else at Durham Dales Centre, a cute collection of studios, shops and galleries showcasing local artists and artisans. Its cafe is also full of old-school charm: grab a teacake or two before following the short walk to teeter on the nearby Stanhope Stepping Stones, a wild walkway through the River Wear. 

People come from all over the world to trace their family history at the Weardale Museum, in its leading family-tree research facility. If you think you might have roots in the area, it should be your first port of call – and if you don’t think you do, who knows, you might be surprised! The wider museum delves into the stories, people and wildlife of the North Pennines. 

Beside the pretty River Nent and surrounded by glorious, landscaped gardens, Lovelady Shield Hotel is all about the good life. Hearty breakfasts, freshly baked treats, individually designed rooms – it’s the perfect recipe for country-hotel breaks, with oodles of space to relax. Dinner is homemade, with plentiful vegan, gluten-free and veggie options too.

Catch the first train of the day on the South Tynedale Railway, a charming heritage line that runs between the villages of Alston and Slaggyford. It leaves at 10.30am, and you can either hop on the return service (arriving back at 12.05pm) or walk back to Alston under your own steam – a picturesque and easy two-hour walk. 

Follow in the footsteps of Roman soldiers at Epiacum’s Roman fort (aka Whitley Castle), the empire’s frontier in the second century AD. It’s amazing to imagine how ancient warriors would have lived in this remote, wild location – but its history actually dates back much further, with the discovery of prehistoric roundhouses on this spot too. Walk the mapped Ancient Trail routes and try the geocaching treasure hunt, before a local lunch at The Nook Farm Shop. 

Embrace your inner adventurer on a horseback trail through the moors. At Sinderhope Pony Trekking Centre, riders of all abilities can explore the North Pennines on a trusty steed, with views over the Rothbury Hills, Cheviot Hills and even the England/Scotland border. You’ll be following bridleways that date back more than 100 years – in the company of red squirrels and roe deer, too. 

The quirky village of Allendale really is a free spirit, with a thriving cluster of artists’ studios, eclectic events (including the fiery Tar Bar’l festival on New Year’s Eve), and a museum dedicated to Doctor Who and science fiction – The Museum of Classic Sci-Fi. Get stuck in, then head out for an easy walk along the River Allen, which runs through the stone-built village and beyond – a great spot for picnics and ice cream.

Snooze like a medieval prince or princess at Langley Castle Hotel, a turreted 14th-century fortress, for country-hotel breaks with a difference. Let your imagination run wild in the grand drawing room, complete with glittering chandeliers and original stone walls, before a relaxed supper – from Northumbrian steak to home-made gnocchi. Bedrooms feature four-poster beds and glorious views of the grounds. 

After your stay in a castle, join a post-breakfast complimentary tour of your medieval rural retreat – a chance to explore this imposing castle, which dates back to 1350. You’ll venture behind the scenes, “meet” the quirky personalities who’ve lived here over the years, and even peek at some of Europe’s best-preserved medieval garderobes (bathrooms).

From its carpet of wild garlic in spring, to spotting roe deer, otters and colourful fungi in autumn, every season brings a new spectacle at Allen Banks and Staward Gorge. Follow the woodland pathways, discover the restored Victorian summerhouse, and go fossil hunting on the Allen Banks Geotrail. As you explore, look up to the treetops: red squirrels thrive here!

Built from the stones of Blanchland Abbey in 1165, tiny Blanchland is a “chocolate-box” charmer: all cobbled lanes and gorgeous fell views, with the quaint White Monk Tea Room occupying its former schoolhouse. The village is also a great base for walks in the countryside, including the 3.5-mile (5.6km) Blanchland Geotrail and the 1.25-mile (2km) riverside nature trail. Easy, picturesque hiking in England.

Head for lunch at one of England’s oldest inns, the Lord Crewe Arms hotel  – where in 1715, Jacobite Rebellion leader ‘General’ Thomas Forster evaded capture by hiding behind the fireplace. The pub dates back to the 1100s, a rural retreat with a superb menu of regional specialities: think venison cottage pie and roasted grouse, with local ales on tap. If you fancy extending your stay, there’s a handful of stylish bedrooms upstairs. 

There’s time for one final stroll through the North Pennines countryside: around the banks of Derwent Reservoir, a huge waterway surrounded by wildlife-filled woodlands. A smooth multi-user trail hugs the shore: it’s suitable for walking and cycling, including those using wheelchairs and pushchairs. Park up at Pow Hill Country Park and follow the 3.5-mile (5.6km) trail to Millshield picnic area, keeping an eye out for red squirrels as you go.